Let the Grape Speak: Q+A with Woods' Winemaker
Woods began as a brewery, but founders Jim and Matt have always had a passion for wine. In 2018, they starting fermenting grapes at our Treasure Island production site, and in 2019 brought industry veteran Kyle Jeffrey on board to lead the program. I sat down recently with Kyle to chat about his background and approach to winemaking.
Estimated reading time: 6 minutes, 3 seconds
Good morning Kyle! So, how did you get into the wine industry?
I didn’t come from a family of winemakers, my parents were actually more into drinking inexpensive wines like Two-Buck Chuck (don’t tell them I said that). Growing up in the Long Beach area in Southern California, my interest in working with plants started with my dad and me turning our backyard into a jungle oasis with palm trees and lots of plants.
When it came time for college, I thought horticulture might be the path for me, and I even considered owning a palm tree nursery. However, during a college visit to San Luis Obispo, I stumbled upon the wine and viticulture program and instantly had this vision of owning a vineyard and sipping wine on the porch at sunset. That was it for me—at 17, I chose wine and viticulture as my major.
Once I started making wine at school, I fell in love with the craft. After graduation, I spent time traveling the world, working harvests in places like Edna Valley in California, Switzerland, Australia, and New Zealand. I also gained valuable experience working in wine shops, especially when I managed a natural wine shop in New York. That was an incredible learning opportunity, where I was able to taste wines, ask questions, and connect with winemakers.
When did you start making wine for Woods?
I had recently started my own wine label, Minus Tide, but was also looking for a day job. A friend told me about Woods, a brewery that was starting to make wine and I was like “oh, that’s interesting”. Talking about the project with the co-founders Jim and Matt really got me excited. Woods had been selling a lot of natural wine, and they have a lot of passion for wine—they weren’t just randomly launching a new product line.
One of the most appealing things was the freedom to experiment, which really attracted me to the project. Woods was also doing innovative things like the Divine Origins project, which is a wine-beer hybrid, and that aligned well with my love for both beer and wine. It was a fun opportunity to explore new ideas and push the boundaries of winemaking.
“I don’t like to stick to rigid rules. Winemaking, like life, isn’t black and white—it’s gray.”
Where did you develop your wine making approach?
My approach is definitely a mix of influences. I’ve worked at places that focus on big, bold, traditional wines, as well as at biodynamic wineries, like the one in Switzerland, where they were making really cool wines from unique varietals.
But I think my style truly developed during my time working at wine shops, especially in New York and Los Angeles. There, I really honed in on a hands-off approach to winemaking, where I focus on native yeasts and work with sustainable or organic vineyards.
Can you describe your approach to winemaking?
I believe in letting the fruit and the terroir speak for themselves, without masking it with heavy oak or excessive intervention. For me, it’s all about expressing the sense of place in every bottle.
My approach is very hands-off, but not dogmatic. I don’t like to stick to rigid rules. Winemaking, like life, isn’t black and white—it’s gray. Ideally, the fruit is in perfect balance, but that doesn’t always happen, so you do what you need to do to make the wine taste as good as possible.
My goal is to make things taste delicious without adding unnecessary elements. We aim for drinkability, and I’m okay with using a little sulfur when needed. While we’ve made zero-zero wines, I believe a small amount of sulfur helps with stability, especially through the bottling process.
How do you balance art and science in winemaking?
I see winemaking as a spectrum between art and science. You can make wine entirely scientifically, or entirely artistically, but I think a balance is best. Personally, I lean 80% toward art and 20% toward science. You need just enough science to make sure the art doesn’t take you off the rails. As long as I know where the chemistry and flavors stand, I rely on taste, sight, and feel.
The process also involves a lot of logistics, like monitoring the weather and harvest timing. It’s not just creative—it’s about planning and reacting to the environment.
How much do you think about the customer when making wine?
I think a lot about the customer, but I also make wines I enjoy drinking. Our wines at Woods are meant to be approachable and ready to drink upon release – not big, tannic wines that require cellaring. Most people drink wine within a few days of purchase, so we aim to make wines that you can pop open immediately and it’s delicious.
Woods sources grapes instead of owning vineyards. Can you explain that approach?
About 50% of wineries own their vineyards, while the other 50% source grapes. For Woods, we prefer the flexibility that comes with sourcing. We don’t have to make the same varietals every year, which allows us to experiment and be nimble. We can find interesting grapes across California and respond to what we have in stock. Our customers expect variety and new experiences, and sourcing allows us to deliver that.
How do you select the vineyards Woods works with?
A lot of it is word of mouth. The wine industry is a tight community, so I often hear about available grapes through relationships with vineyard managers. I visit vineyards to assess factors like soil quality and farming practices. We prioritize organic and sustainable vineyards—places that are conscious about their farming, avoiding unnecessary chemicals. The goal is to work with vineyards that do things with intention and care.
What kind of vineyard characteristics do you look for?
It depends on the grape. I often prefer cool-climate, high-elevation vineyards, especially for varietals like Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. However, warmer climates with sandy soils can be ideal for other varietals, like old-vine Zinfandel or Carignan. The key is matching the grape to the right growing conditions. I’m not rigid about specific climates but focus on what makes sense for each varietal.
How do you decide what wines to make each year?
It starts with reviewing what we currently have and what’s needed. For example, if we’re running low on white or orange wine, that will influence our decisions. We also like to experiment with varietals we haven’t worked with before. Each year we try new things, from classic wines to more unique, lesser-known varietals. The goal is always to offer variety and new experiences to our customers.
Do you follow industry trends when planning wines?
Not really. In San Francisco, we’re bucking general industry trends. Our customers are more open to trying unique varietals and styles that you wouldn’t typically find in a grocery store. So, while I consider customer preferences, I don’t let industry trends dictate what we make.
Can you explain what you mean by San Francisco “bucking the trends”?
In San Francisco, people are more open to experimenting with different types of wine. We use varietals like Aglianico and Corvina, which aren’t mainstream elsewhere. Our wines are unfined and unfiltered, and we don’t cater to the grocery store wine market. The local audience here is more adventurous, so we have the freedom to offer more eclectic options.
Photography by JJ Ignotz Photography
